




Before laying lawn the area should be thoroughly prepared. It's best to start this operation as soon as the ground is dry enough to cultivate and if possible allow a period of fallow before laying the grass. This allows any remaining perennial roots to sprout and weed seeds turned up during digging to germinate, so that they can be removed or killed off. Repeat the process a few times to give the new grass the best chance to grow uninhibited and reduce the development of a weedy sward later.
The site will probably need a certain amount of levelling depending on the finish
required. For a formal lawn it should be reasonably flat and the humps will have
to be removed. Shallow bumps and dips will be sorted while digging, but large changes
in levels that are deeper than the topsoil layer will require a bit of engineering.
The soil will have to be removed and the subsoil moved around to the required level
before the topsoil is replaced.
Check to see if there are any drainage problems, soggy
areas will need some sort of treatment to give a satisfactory lawn. In the domestic
situation, it may be worthwhile to start with a layer of 19mm gravel covered with
some grit to 'blind' it if you are bringing in fresh soil, particularly if the subsoil
is dense clay which will not drain quickly. For a larger area you may need to sink
some small drains filled with stones into the clay below the gravel, to carry excess
water away (sometimes called a French Drain). If there is no outlet to allow it to
drain from the site, a soak away consisting of a pit filled with more stones should
cope with any water which collects. After going to this length to ensure good drainage
the topsoil must have a good structure as well so if it has a high clay content,
incorporate plenty of grit and organic matter. Sandy soil will need organic matter
to improve retention of moisture and nutrients.
With the levels and drainage sorted,
fork over the soil removing all perennial weeds with their roots. If they are dense
the best thing is to skim off the surface first and any remaining roots will be found
when digging. In a large area the skimming and digging can be done with hired mechanical
equipment, but the advantage of hand digging is that you can be more thorough in
finding roots and stones. Any stones larger than 25mm in diameter should be removed
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Irrigation is a contentious subject and in the present situation of water shortages
and high water charging, watering the lawn is a luxury, but it does not need to be
watered after it has been established. Too much irrigation causes the roots to remain
close to the surface so they are unable to reach water lower down. Left to develop
normally they will grow down further and are better able to withstand a dry spell.
The first thing to do in dry weather is to allow the grass to grow longer, the deeper
sward keeps the soil cooler so there is reduced loss by evaporation. If water is
in extremely short supply, it should be kept for more important plants which do not
recover. Even after apparently dying away much of the grass will recover and can
easily be re-